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The inclusiveness of denim has made the cowboy culture for more than 150 years enduring. The combination of printing and denim has appeared for more than 70 years, and it has now evolved into a style of unconventional and unconventional denim. The article introduces the classification, characteristics and development trend of denim garment printing technology. For example, traditional printing techniques include manual, hand-painted, rubbing, dyeing, printing, overprinting, flocking, and printing. Modern printing techniques include Digital printing, laser laser, etc. The combination of these rich prints and denim has given the centuries a new visual feast and popular theme in a blend of classic and modern.
A, cowboy printing mode classification
1. Traditional printing: Traditional printing also refers to printing and dyeing, which refers to the general process of dyeing, printing, finishing, washing and other processes. Sometimes referred to as dyeing and finishing, it is a way of processing textiles. Printed denim clothing appeared in the train conductor's striped print denim uniform in the 1940s. In the 1950s, Levi's printed the colorful "Aloha" Hawaiian style on sports and casual wear. The seventies hand-painted jeans were set up at the time. At the moment, the traditional printed denim has been evolving until now.
2. Hand-printing: Hand-printed printing is commonly used in letterpress printing and hollow printing. The letterpress printing refers to engraving the pattern with a stencil, and uses the yin and yang surface to form a pattern on the denim fabric. The hollow plate printing, also known as the type printing, refers to the use of different types of engraving and hollowing out patterns, which are painted on the fabric to the hollowed out place. Compared with the industrial printing method, the efficiency is low, the output is low, and the quality is uneven. In today's industrialized production mode, hand-printing is more about its uniqueness, creativity and artistic charm.
3. Hand-painted: Using textile dyes or acrylic paints to create and paint on denim clothing is also a manifestation of the individuality of young people today. Mainly based on the application of brushes or different tools, the use of brush strokes, flat coating, splashing and other brush strokes on the finished denim clothing to create a decorative effect, forming a unique denim clothing. Textile dyes are more permeable than acrylic paints and have a better touch on the fabric after drying. The hand-painted denim garment can be hand-painted directly after finishing, avoiding the coloration of the pattern after the finishing. CaineLondon has created a series of TruckerJackets with graffiti, tattoos and iconic icons from the 1990s. The hand-painted and hand-painted logos are used as hand-painted backs. The fashion designers combine the popular, young and interesting patterns with the denim costumes, reflecting the rebellious, independent and free spirit of the hippies of the 70s. They continue the classics and play with creativity. The style of cowboy cynical is gradually transformed into Display of personalized labels.
4. Dyeing and printing: Dyeing and printing: refers to the surface of the dyed denim fabric, adding a whitening powder or a dyeing agent strong bleaching agent to destroy the background color, after printing through the screen with the color printing paste, after passing through The effect of drying, steaming, washing and other processes on the blue-and-white flower. When the bleach does not react with the base color, other colors can be added to the dye to print a color pattern on the indigo cloth. This type of printing is called color discharge.
5. Paint overprint: refers to the use of a good color paste, using a round or flat net to print the pattern on the denim fabric. The paint cover has good coverage, the surface of the fabric is flat, and it is not adsorbed by the fabric. It is applied to the denim jacket with less friction. The back cover is more printed, which is not suitable for the fabric with light texture, softness or fluffiness. Japanese brand Evisu (Fu Shen), this year launched the M piece print design of jeans hips and legs, brand identity, reflecting the Japanese street culture. Dior's 2015 men's faux-graffiti striped color print makes the pattern more lively and dynamic.
6. Transfer printing: Transfer printing means that a dispersible dye is printed on a special paper surface or a reusable substrate, and the pattern is transferred to the denim fabric by a different method such as hot pressing.
7. Flocking printing: Electrolytic flocking is carried out on the denim fabric after printing the adhesive paste of the desired pattern shape, and finally post-processing. This type of printing requires strong adhesive to ensure the short suede and denim fabric are firm. Combination of. Denim clothing gives people a feeling of civilian color, not suitable for heavy makeup, but flocking printing techniques are used in high-end denim clothing, the pattern is mostly retro European and Tengman flowers. Its advantages: the fabric has a strong three-dimensional effect, the pattern has a layered layering, and the hand feels soft. Disadvantages are: the production of small quantities, not suitable for excessive friction and excessive friction, the flower design should not be complicated and too stressed.
8. Rotten printing: On the basis of the traditional burnt-out process, after using the bad flower pulp on the denim fabric, after the cotton is washed, it is finished by water washing to form an alternative style denim with a three-dimensional effect of the yarn unwinding. The white weft yarn of the burnt flower is dissipated, and the warp and weft yarns of the pattern are not destroyed to form a three-dimensional carved plant pattern. This type of print design has a destructive aesthetic and is not suitable for use on denim fabrics that are woven from knitted denim or coils.
9. Foaming printing: Printing fabric made of thermoplastic resin and foaming agent is printed on the denim fabric, and after three-dimensional relief effect pattern is formed by high-temperature vapor evaporation. The edge of the denim fabric pattern of the foamed printing is more difficult to handle, and is mostly applied to cartoon or letter patterns.
10. Digital printing: refers to the use of inkjet or reactive dyes on computer-processed pattern printing on denim fabrics to form vivid and realistic art patterns. The formation method is quite different from the traditional flat screen printing method. Modern denim prints are more personalized and customized. Traditional floral and animal patterns have gradually separated from the focus of attention, and people are more interested in light psychedelic and abstract patterns. Such rapidly changing popular elements have made market changes unpredictable. However, digital printing meets the small-volume, multi-changing production mode, making denim printed clothing surprisingly successful. The whimsical, rebellious VivienneWestwood RedLabel brand uses a digital print of denim skirts with abstract jungle elements to showcase the brand's uncompromising style. The cowboy's tough texture is combined with the feminine print of the feminine personality.
11. Laser laser printing: refers to the pattern effect formed by computer image processing to burn the yarn on the surface of denim fabric and vaporized dye. The denim fabric is mostly used for the treatment of cat whiskers, stirrups, tearing, distressing, washing, etc. Compared with traditional sprayed potassium permanganate, laser production reduces the pollution of water pollution and the cumbersome process. Link. The laser printing pattern is clear, and various artistic style patterns can be accurately printed on the fabric. Compared with the traditional printing, the planar and two-dimensional pattern laser laser forms a pattern with a stereoscopic effect and a more varied style; but its working principle The restriction results in only a deep denim base effect. Its advantages are faster than traditional printing denim processing, simple operation, high efficiency and environmental protection.
Second, the development trend of denim printing
The combination of various printing techniques and different print patterns reveals the colorful effects of denim fabrics. Printed denim is a low-cost, high-efficiency decorative technique at this stage, and the comfort and softness meet the needs of the public for denim. The change of rich prints in denim apparel not only enhances the visual aesthetic of the garment, but also reflects the deeper decorative meaning of the garment, and to a certain extent, it can also cover the deficiencies of the human body and satisfy the psychological and spiritual needs of people. .
Based on the art design, the printing process is used to change the single color of the denim blue. Whether it's gorgeous rococo, vintage European flower vines, paisley patterns, or fresh and natural Hawaiian Aloha patterns, geometric abstract patterns on the denim. Cleverly convey the emotional relationship between flowers and denim, enhance the texture and value of denim, and enhance the artistic expression of the pattern.
In the context of a diversified modern society, the design of denim clothing patterns pays more attention to the artistic context and the expression of cultural connotations. Whether in the perspective of national spirit or totem worship, fashion designers need to consider more people in design. The concept of change, based on the national cultural foundation, combined with the decorative, practical, and artistic design of the pattern to fully exert the characteristics of the printing process for innovative design.
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Editor in charge: Liu Xiaomei
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