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What is the difference between a complicated watch with a price of 500,000 euros and a regular watch that sells only 50 yuan? The craftsmanship, inlaid diamonds, and the famous factory...these external conditions are far less important than whether the watch has a heart-shaped movement designed, crafted and perfectly inlaid.
In the watch industry, polishing is an essential weapon that has to be mentioned. When the rigorous and meticulous watchmaking process and the passionate art and art collide on the watch movement, the two merge into each other and infiltrate into every corner of the movement. This is the art of movement grinding.
Figure: Fine grinding of the Geneva Seal movement.
Movement grinding is divided into seven levels
First level
The plate is unpolished, and the material of the escapement component is not alloyed, it is ordinary steel and copper.
Secondary
The movement is sanded and the material of the escapement remains the same.
Third level
The movement is polished, electroplated to make it brighter, and the alloy is used as the material of the escapement structure, so that its accuracy is not affected by temperature changes.
Level four
Similar to the third level, it only adds a fine adjustment device for the fast and slow needles.
Five levels
The machine board on the movement made some minor changes, and the grinding and polishing have strict requirements. With its own movement number, there is a fine adjustment device for the fast and slow needles, and the fine alloy material is used to manufacture the precise escapement structure components. And strengthen the polishing, send the observatory inspection, and engraved with the words 5 orientation adjustment on the machine board.
Six levels
This is the movement of the Swiss Coulver watch.
There are also Level 5 requirements and production levels. Especially in the steel parts such as the escape wheel, the horse, the fast and slow needle, the chamfer mirror is polished, the spherical stone structure is adopted, the gear is also chamfered, and the screw is also required to be chamfered; if it is an automatic watch, Then use K gold as the automatic disk, so the movement has reached the grade that the advanced watch should have.
Seven levels
This is the movement of Roger Dubuis.
The seventh-class movement that meets the requirements of the Geneva Seal, the movement that was developed, designed and produced in its own factory.
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The higher grades should be hand-built by experienced watchmakers and produced for the participation in the watch competition, with the production level of the Geneva Seal. Or in the personal studio, from the structural design, machine plate assembly parts manufacturing, polishing, polishing, testing, combination, including the individual design of the super complex movement movement design, manufacture and combination. It is not only the display of basic functions or complex functions, it is the endorsement of the watchmaking process, and it is also a piece of timepiece art that has been handed down.
Richard Mille fast rotating barrel RM038
Jaeger-LeCoultre's 177 tourbillon movement
Completing such a movement is an unimaginable and arduous task. Looking at the industry today, there are fewer than 100 craftsmen who know how to make "complex function watches". Even a highly skilled watchmaker can take six to twelve months to make such a movement. The development of a movement is costly and the process is long, and some development time can even reach more than ten years.
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